After 8 months of planning and prepping, I finally made my way back to Isle Royale National Park, a remote wilderness paradise in Lake Superior. This was week-long solo backpacking trip that was much needed, much anticipated, and long overdue mental health retreat to reset. The first time I have ever been on a solo vacation for more than a couple days, and first time I documented my whole experience. Sorry, not calling it journaling!
My adventure consisted of 5 days and over 50 miles, meant to be physically and mentally challenging. My pack weighed in at around 41 lbs. This was also a personal adventure to help me find peace and contentedness I have been lacking.
This is my third trip to the island. Isle Royale was the very first backpacking trip I ever went on with the Boy Scouts when I was around 14 (see last pic below). Coincidently, it was also the last backpacking trip I did 22 years ago. So, it's kind of a meaningful place to me.
On my way up, I had to stop at Castle Danger Brewing, in Two Harbors, and Voyageur Brewing, in Grand Marais. I also spent some time exploring Grand Marais, before heading to Grand Portage, where I slept in my truck in the casino parking lot.
Day 1
The ferry, Voyageur II, departed at 7:30. We had a 2-hour, 22 mile ride to Isle Royale. The lake was calm and a fairly clear sky. I enjoyed a few cups of coffee on the ride over.
Upon arrival, there was a brief orientation and filling out my permit before I was on my way. Shortly after I started, it started to lightly rain. That did not damper my spirits, as the landscape was beautiful along the shoreline of Washington Harbor on my 8.5 mile trek to Feldtmann Lake. My first climb brought me to a beautiful overlook. The rain had stopped at that time. It was reassuring to finally see the sign for the campsite. My feet and legs were drenched from rain and wet vegetation that hung over much of the trail.
It was overcast and a little foggy. I set up camp and made a side trek to Rainbow Cove, which I remember from the last time I was here. The cove was a rock beach, beautiful and peaceful. I soaked my feet, rinsed off, and explored the shoreline. I even found a few small agates! There were a lot of moose sign along the way, but no moose sightings yet.
I had a beautiful view of the lake from my campsite. I found out really quick how nasty the mosquitoes were. That evening the rain started in. I was awakened to water dripping on my face. After more investigation I neglected to notice the seam sealant coming apart and peeling off from my old tent that is close to 25 years old. I was warm in cozy in my sleeping bag though. I had draped my rain jacket over part of my sleeping bag and spent part of the night mopping up water. Like the mosquitoes, you adapt and roll with what Mother Nature throws you. No need to get too discouraged.
Day 2
The next morning, I was up early, and first thing was breakfast! A hot cup of coffee and bowl of oatmeal hit the spot. I filtered my water for the day, packed up camp, and was on my way. Everything was wet, so I was hoping for a dryer day. Most of my hike on day 2 was in the lower terrain with some vegetation up to my neck hanging over the trail, and of course wet! No big deal, I was already soaked.
Not a mile down the trail, I spotted my first moose! The bull moose came up from the left side of the trail about 25 yards in front of me. I was excited to say the least and my heart was pounding! It stared at me, and I graciously backed up and gave him his space. I thought he was far enough off the trail as I tried to pass, but he then snorted at me, so I backed away yet again, watching him eat and go about his business. I was finally able to pass. These animals are amazing to see up close in person!
Another 15 min. down the trail I jumped another moose along the trail bedded down! He also stared me down as I slowly backed away. Unlike the first one. I got to watch this majestic creature for close to a half an hour before he would move far enough from trail for me to pass.
After that, I hauled ass to my next campsite to finish my 10.3 mile journey. I wanted to get out of the wet crap and dry off. I finally made it to Siskiwit Bay. It was a gorgeous view and there was a large dock. Thankfully I made it there early enough to snag a shelter to set up my tent in, and keep the mosquitoes out... I hung a line and proceeded to hang up and dry everything. After a quick lunch of some sweet and spicy tuna with crackers, I was able to relax and soak up some sun. I then explored the bay and rinsed off. By the end of the day, most of the individual and group sites were full. It was nice to talk with a few of the other backpackers. I spent a lot of time out on the dock, not just because of the beautiful view, but the mosquitoes were almost nonexistent out there. Everything, except my shoes were dry and I was able to get some half ass sleep. This 41-year-old body isn't quite as tolerant to a thin Therm-a-Rest pad and small pillow of clothes like it used to be. I finally found out if I used my pack as a pillow, I slept much better. Again, adapt to challenges.
Day 3
I woke again early in the morning and had my coffee, oatmeal, and Stinger honey waffle. I finished my coffee on the dock and watched a gorgeous foggy sunrise. I packed up everything and made my way to Lake Desor, 9.9 miles away. The beginning of the trek was a bit treacherous, as it follows the shoreline of the bay for a while. If I was smart, I would have walked the beach most of the way instead of following the trail, which some of it had eroded and I ended up the beach for some of it anyway. The vegetation was all covered in do, so once again, my legs and feet were drenched. At one point I was lost in a swamp for a few minutes following what I thought was the hiking trail that branched off to animal trails. I finally was able to then head inland, where the trail improved.
I made my way up the Greenstone Ridge to Island Mine campground, where I took a little break to rehydrate and grab a snack. My trail snacks consisted of Stinger caffeinated energy chews, jerky, and nut, fruit, and seed trail mix. I also added Propel electrolyte mix to my water. Even though the water is filtered, it still tasted kind of funky. Lake Superior water tasted the best, FYI.
I took the Greenstone Ridge to Lake Desor. This was much better, dryer, hiking. There were a couple beautiful views with a bunch of butterflies up on the ridge.
I finally made it to the campsite. It was a steep climb down to the lake. After some tuna and crackers for lunch, I hung out everything to dry, again, set up camp, then went and took a dip in the lake. It felt amazing! After everything dried, even my shoes, the ominous clouds I saw coming in over the lake made their way to the campsite. There were a couple of different brief showers. Thankfully they were brief, because again, the rainfly on my tent started to leak... The brief showers gave way to a calm and beautiful night with a gorgeous sunset over the lake. My phone had switched to Eastern Time, so I had to acclimate myself to the change since I used my phone as my clock. I tried to get some sleep as my 15.5 mile day was up next. I did get up in the middle of the night to see the stars without the pollution of light. But it never seemed to get completely dark out there.
Day 4
I was up early again. I usually woke up around 5:00. Same routine, breakfast, pack camp, filter water, then get an early start. While I was filtering water, I saw something I thought was a small fish. Upon further investigation, it was not a fish, it was a leach. I picked it out of the water, and it was the largest leach I have ever seen!
I was in performance mode this day. Gym shorts, microfiber cutoff shirt, bandanna, and loaded up with bug spray. Because I can't just take it easy... LOL. I set goals and stretch goals to different check points along the trail. I was able to make good time hiking mostly along the ridge. The trail did not have too much elevation and was more of a hardwood forest landscape. I had a few breaks as I met a couple different hikers coming the opposite way, I had brief conversations with.
After I got off the ridge trail and headed towards Huginnin Cove, it was wet vegetation along the trails again, which my feet were quickly soaked again. I made it about 85% of the way with dry feet though! Once I made it to the north shore of the island, the cool breeze and fog off Lake Superior quickly cooled down the sunny and warm temps inland. The views were absolutely breathtaking. Large boulders and rocks littered the trail to navigate around with amazing views of the big lake. There was a rotting moose carcass over off the ledge by the shore. It was kind of smelly, but interesting.
I finally made it to Huginnin Cove. My feet hurt and I was spent. I'll have to say my endurance was great though. I made it in around 5 hours.
This campsite did not disappoint! Huginnin Cove was my favorite campsite of the trip! The fog cleared, the sun came out, and there was a gentle breeze. I went through my typical routine of drying things out and rinsing off in the lake. After a brief rest, I mustered up enough energy to go explore the whole shoreline and climbed up to a rocky overlook. I spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the area. The evening yielded another gorgeous sunset, which I watched for close to an hour. My body was definitely sore and feeling it, but I was in a great mood and felt great about my trip. I got up in the middle of the night again and went to the shore. It was calm, slightly foggy, peaceful, and the water was as smooth as glass.
Day 5
Another half ass night sleep and I was up early again. No rush today, but I headed out early anyways. A cake walk of a 4.3 mile hike back to Windigo. I walked at a more casual pace. The hike that morning was relaxing. As the trail gave way to a road, I knew I was on the home stretch. I finally made it! I took off my pack on the deck of the store and noticed a few guys going and coming from the shower. I did have a spare set of clothes I did not wear. My intent was not to shower, but $6 for a 5 min. shower was money well spent! All the food there was expensive, as you can imagine, except for the beer! It was around $5 for a couple of beers! I enjoyed a Keweenaw U.P. Witbier and a Leinie's Summer Shandy. They were very refreshing. I picked up something for the kids, then enjoyed the sun and cool breeze from the harbor until the ferry came.
On the way back, the captain graciously took us by the wreck of the SS America, which the tip of the bow is only a couple feet under the water. I sat in the back of the ferry most of the way, while enjoying some coffee and thinking back on my adventure. The fog was so thick that once we made it to the main part of the lake, I couldn't see much farther than 100 yds. in any direction.
After I got a shore, I made my way back to Grand Marais, for some much-anticipated Sven & Ole's pizza. That 7" pizza didn't last long. When I came with the Boy Scout way back when, we stopped there for pizza, and I can remember how much we were looking forward to that. It was more of a sentimental thing than anything. The pizza tasted amazing. I may have grabbed some Kwik Trip hot case, in Two Harbors, on the way back too...
This backpacking adventure lived up everything I hoped it would. It was definitely a physical and mental challenge. No distractions and no technology. I was in nature where I felt most grounded and could think most clearly. I stayed positive and adapted. I also dropped around 7 lbs. while I was out there! I could use a massage and a chiropractic adjustment too! I felt refreshed, but not quite ready to get back to reality yet!
-Aaron
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